A Proper Scone

One of life's simple pleasures is a freshly baked scone topped with jam and clotted cream. But for many, a scone is a just a huge triangle of dense, dry dough, lathered with frosting, that's usually left over in the pastry case of the local coffee chain.

The British view them as snacks, just enough to bridge the gap between lunch and dinner. They should be small, two ounces is about right, and not larger than the palm of your hand.

Recipes for preparing scones are too numerous to mention, but proper scones should be tender and moist, kind of like Southern biscuits that are a little sweet. Golden raisins and currants are traditional British additions, but in America other dried fruits, even chocolate chips have become popular.

Frosting, however, is not acceptable. They're not breakfast pastries. Think of them as vehicles for thick and rich clotted cream and great fruit preserves.

Dense, dry scones are usually blamed on technique. Mass commercial production affects quality and even home bakers should handle the dough as little as possible. Great ingredients make a big difference and lay off the sugar.

Next time you're offered a scone with jam and clotted cream, try it. You may be pleasantly surprised.